A Walk Around Old Phuket Town

When you only have a day in Phuket and your hubby is off playing golf, what’s a person to do? We’ve stayed and explored the island for a week, years ago, but this time was simply a port call on a cruise. Before the taxi dropped hubby off at the Loch Palm Golf Club, it dropped me at the Surin Circle Clock Tower, a main roundabout on the approach to the Old Town.

I had marked out a rough walking map which took me as a first attraction, to the Wat Witchit Sangkharam, a very large Buddhist complex that was established in 1918. Commonly known as Wat Kuan, the complex encompasses a sermon hall, a monastic school, an ordination hall, monk residences and an enshrinement hall. The traditional temple architecture is very attractive and ornate, and the whole area gave off such a peaceful atmosphere, although it was early in the day before many people arrived. On my way back into town I stopped at another temple, the Wat Mongkol Nimit, which was very similar in design.

Unusual architecture always catches my eye and this colour on a building guarantees it. There are a number of Sino-European buildings in the heart of the Old Town, frequently painted in standout colours.

Built in 1891, this Chinese-Hokkien shrine is found up a small alley beside Krung Thai Bank on Phang Nga Rd. Known as the Saeng Tham Shrine or Shrine of Serene Light, the building is in the form of a small, compact Chinese pavilion. The roof is decorated with beautiful stucco dragons and Chinese dolls, which are popular in Fujian Province. Around 2010 the shrine was restored and the entrance was widened and highlighted by a massive and unmissable Chinese gate. 

After a few hours of walking I decided it was time for an authentic Thai massage. My research led me to a street of terraced buildings off Ratsada Road which was uniquely painted and designed, with shops at the lower levels. There I found the massage place, where the ladies gave me the full treatment, including standing and sitting on my back. It was rigorous to say the least! This terraced area has now been repainted and some of it has been incorporated into the Midtown Hotel

Refreshed, of sorts, I carried on to the very heart of the commercial area where a number of colonial type buildings functioned as banks, museums, Town Hall and Post Office. The Phuket Thai Hua Museum was an imposing building, though not as large as the others, with a somewhat delicate pediment for such a chunky overall design.

I was hoping to experience a meal at the Blue Elephant Restaurant, above, which had great reviews, but I was unable to get a booking at short notice. As it was quite hot and I was desperate for a cold drink and some air conditioning, I sought out a modern takeaway franchise which then turned out not to take my credit card, and I had run very short of cash. I ended up with a very meagre meal.

In a side street opposite the Blue Elephant restaurant I spied some street art that reminded me of the ones I had seen in Penang. The trend has really taken off in Phuket too. Some of the most famous ones are in the area near Soi Romanee.

The shophouses along Thalang Road near Soi Romanee are popular with tourists, particularly for the Sunday Street Market. Pastel colours on the buildings add to the charm of the area.

Then it was time to return to the ship. While walking through the main streets I had been repeatedly approached by taxi drivers touting for rides. It was quite annoying. But now I was tired. I had been warned that they often did not turn on their meters and so I should strike a deal before getting in. I checked with one guy that he would accept credit card because I didn’t have enough cash and we agreed on a fair price. However my confidence in him evaporated when after a while we appeared to be travelling in the wrong direction to the port. I made him pull over and showed him the route on my phone so he could find his way. So we turned around and proceeded without further issue to the ship, however when I offered him my card he said he didn’t take credit! We then had to turn back and find some shops where there was an ATM. Lucky for me we had no further negotiation on price!